|
|
I recently got to the yearly task of organizing my fly box(s) and as i pulled the many containers, boxes, sleeves etc out of my car along with the occasional fly embedded in the carpet or sun visor, i got to thinking about all the flies i collect during my time guiding and fishing the streams and lakes of Virginia. Like most of us, I’m always experimenting with new patterns, either tying them or buying them, and most of them just end up gathering dust in some remote corner of my rolling fly bin (aka “car”). As i looked at the vast and mostly unused selection of flies that i had accumulated, I realized that as I have gained experience over the years i have cut my fly selection down to about 5 basic flies plus a few “specialty” flies that i may not fish much but always want to have if the situation warrants it. At this point i have basically come full circle in my fly selection. I normally counsel beginners to select about 5 good, proven patterns and learn how to fish them then to progress to other patterns as they gain experience. At the end of that curve, as you start to really know the waters you fish regularly and their seasons and moods, the result is a paring down of your fly selection to the really necessary, effective patterns that take fish in most circumstances. When I guide I carry one small fly box. Here’s what’s in it. Feel free to disagree, but in every water I’ve fished in Virginia and other states in the US, these patterns will take trout almost all the time.
English Pheasant Tail Nymph
This is the English version of the Pheasant tail nymph. The difference between this and the American version is it has no legs and no peacock herl. I’m sure the American PT is very effective as well but on heavily fished private waters where I do much of my guiding, I feel the fish often want a smaller, less flashy pattern and this one does it 90% of the time. Mine contain a bit of flash on the back but no bead. I fish this guy as a dropper off a bigger fly almost all the time but it is usually the fly that takes the fish. The English PT imitates many small mayfly nymphs including the BWO which is active much of the year in nymph form. This fly can also be fished near the surface with no weight when midges are coming off. I usually fish it in 18 but go to 16 and 20 when I need too.
San Juan Worm
Ok laugh if you want but if I had one fly to use anywhere, with the possible exception of the English PT, this would be it. I fish it in lots of colors as long as its red. Trout, especially rainbows, love this thing but I’ve caught a good share of browns with it too. Some have tried to belittle the SJW saying its not really a fly but more of a “bait”. Its entirely artificial, tied on a hook, and imitates an available natural food source. Period. The fact that you can whip out a dozen at home in about 30 minutes is a big plus too. Try this pattern especially when water is high or off color. Often I’ll dead drift this pattern then do a mend that moves the pattern slightly. The “twitch” often triggers strikes. A great fly for beginners because it doesn’t require absolute control of the drift: movement is a plus.
Prince Nymph
Normally I’m not a huge fan of “famous” patterns because I feel the fish see these on a regular basis but the Prince is an exception. I know the fish have seen it a million times but that hasn’t made it any less effective. This is an attractor pattern that can imitate a variety of bugs from stoneflies in the large sizes to small mayflies in the smaller sizes. I think the combination of the white wings and the peacock herl is what makes this pattern so effective. I’ll fish this in 10-12 in heavy water and go to smaller sizes in skinny water. I often fish a PT as a dropper off this fly. It is also very similar to an old wet fly pattern called a Picket Pin that is often overlooked today. I always fish this fly with a bead head to help get it down.
Zebra Midge
During the cold winter months, the trout are biting and the midges are hatching. Most people don’t much care for the combination of cold and size 22 flies; who does? But the Zebra will help you be productive. Almost all my other patterns focus on mayflies, caddisflies, stoneflies, and terrestrials but it is necessary for every flyfisher to have at least one midge pattern (preferably two) in both light and dark colors. When midges are hatching and trout are sipping them off the surface this is the fly to have. Trout will often take it even down a foot or two in the water column. This fly can turn your fishing from frustrating to fantastic in seconds. As a note on midges, I often carry a light colored comparadun when the trout are right on the surface on cream midges. Other options would be a Griffiths Gnat. Fish this in 18 and 22.
Poxy Back Micro Stone
Virginia is home to numerous stoneflies especially the “yellow sally” which hatches in the spring. This small yellow stonefly is often overlooked until it hatches but the nymphs are always around. I will say that this pattern tends to produce better in the spring during the time when the Stones are crawling toward shore to hatch; they do not emerge like the other flys. I almost never fish the adult dry fly in this pattern but use then nymph instead. I like it anywhere from 12-18. The epoxy on the thorax tends to give the fly a “shine” which helps attract trout. Typically the fish will either be “on” or “off” this one. If its not producing within about 20 casts change flies. Fish it in runs and riffles where Stoneflies live.
Thin Mint Streamer
Ok Ok. I know I said 5 patterns but you have to carry a Woolley bugger right? I carry one. The thin mint is tied not with Chenille but with the all magical peacock herl for a body. In addition, it has brown, black, and green marabou for a tail. Can’t decide if you want to fish brown, olive or black? Fish a thin mint and try all three. Size is really unimportant for the most part but presentation can vary. I usually start by fishing this dead drift like a nymph. Watch for the “jump” in the line when a fish takes. If that’s not producing or in off color water I will strip it slow and fast until I find what the fish like. You can tie another fly off this as a dropper if you choose.
Final Flies
There you have my basic fly box. As you probably noticed, I don’t have any dry flies in the list. I usually do carry some with me but only use them if a full blown hatch is coming off. The exception to that is fishing native brookies in the Blue Ridge Mountains: I almost always fish these streams with dry flies, mostly attractor patterns that I can see well. A couple of my favorites are the Royal Wulff, Mr. Rapidan and Elk Hair Caddis. If I was doing a list of 5 necessary dry flies, the Elk Hair Caddis would top my list.
Finally, I love fishing wet flies and at some point I’ll probably write a list of 5 must have wet flies. For now I’ll say that I’d always have a Picket Pin with cdc, a March Brown Spider, and some type of Adams Variant as well as some soft hackles. That would about sum up my simple trout fly box. Of course you wouldn’t know that from looking in my car.
With so many choices out there today when it comes to buying a new or first fly rod many consumers are confused about how to go about getting the right rod for them. There are so many models and makers now with more being added daily that the task of choosing that first rod can be daunting for someone entering the sport. This article will help to simplify that process based on our personal experiences with buying our own rods and our experience selling hundreds of rods to customers over the years. This is not a preferencial article attempting to sell a certain product or brand but a guideline we use for any customer in our store who is unsure about how to proceed with that all important purchase.
My first question to those entering the sport and thinking about buying a first rod is “how well do you know yourself?”. This answer to this question is key because it will allow you to place yourself in one of three rod categories when you consider purchasing.
I generally break down fly rods into these three categories: entry level, mid level, and top of the line. Entry level fly rods for our purposes are any fly rod between $100 and $300. Mid level rods cover the $300-$450 range and top of the line rods range in price anywhere from $500 on up to the $700’s. For the purpose of our discussion with a new angler considering a first rod I generally dispense with the third category unless you are the type who knows you will pursue flyfishing as a life long passion and you are interested in only having the best available tools (or possibly you have tons of disposable income and would like to pass it on to my worldwide fishing travel fund…). But now back to my key question…
If you know yourself well enough to determine that you will be seriously pursuing fly fishing as a hobby and not just dabbling in it I highly suggest aiming for the mid level category in fly rods. This is usually where the best value is found: great components and performance, low weight, reasonable cost. If you are seriously pursuing a sport then it makes sense to invest in quality tools. What I often see and what I did myself when entering the sport 20 years ago was to buy the lowest priced rod I could find. Of course I was back in the store buying a better rod the next year and could have actually saved myself money by just investing in that better rod on the first go round. But I didn’t have me to give me advice then…
On the other hand, “buying low” often makes perfect sense. You may know that you are “testing the waters” (pun intended) and don’t have the time or the means to pursue fly fishing as anything other than a pleasant occasional hobby. Go low Joe. There is no use throwing money away on something you don’t need and certainly won’t appreciate unless of course you like throwing money away.
As you pursue fly fishing as a hobby or an addiction, you will over time, find a need for more rods and, in addition, as your skill grows, you will also want to upgrade rods to own the finest tools available—a sheer joy to use and the most effective fishing tools available. In the final analysis when you consider the cost of outfitting for a sport, fly fishing costs less than many other pursuits—golf comes to mind. In any sport you will have an initial outlay to get equipped but in so many sports now days there are the “green fees”—those additional costs that have to be paid after you thought everything was bought and paid for.
Finally, since many ask, here are some of my recommendations on rods. First off, cast them if you can. If you cannot personally cast them, then the following list will get you started in the right direction. There are no bad choices in the following list. Each level is listed in order of MY preference.
Entry level rods: Sage Launch, Scott A2, Temple Fork Outfitters Pro or TiCR series, Orvis Clearwater
Mid level fly rods: Sage VT2, Orvis TLS Power Matrix, Orvis Superfine Troutbum
High End: Orvis Helios, Sage Z Axis, Scott G2 (all 3 great rods in no order)
fishing the Jackson tailwater tomorrow
 (first published in Virginia Sportsman Magazine)
A lot has been written on the subject of bamboo fly rods, most of it trying to define the magical essence of the cane that seems to draw many of us back to its beauty and history despite the availability of newer high-tech materials. My intention is not to try to put into words what others before me have so eloquently espoused. I’d simply like to help those who are interested make more sense of the choices available to today’s aspiring bamboo enthusiast.
Recently, the fly fishing community has enjoyed a resurgence in interest in bamboo rods. Many classic models from famous makers command prices in the thousands of dollars to the point that the uneducated buyer often suffers under the misconception that any old classic cane rod must be a collectors item and worth a substantial sum. Nothing could be further from the truth. As the owner of a fly shop I see many old rods come through my doors and only 1 in 10 is worth anything more than $100. Only 1 in 100 is a true classic worth over $1000. This actually works in favor of those wanting to fish old cane because many of the “factory” rods from Heddon, Granger and others are not particularly valuable but they are a lot of fun to fish. Take a recent customer of mine for example: he bought a 1926 Heddon rod for about $100, paid $100 to have it restored and ended up with a great fishing tool with a heck of a lot of history attached to it which enriches his experience every time he sets foot on a stream. These “great deals” can be commonplace if you know where and what to look for in a cane rod.
Let me start by laying out some general principles of value that are used in appraising cane rods then some basic categories into which you can fit a given rod to help get a rough idea of its value if you are intending to buy. In addition, if you’ve not ever cast bamboo you may want to stop by your local fly shop and cast one—some find the slower action a bit disconcerting at first and deeply rewarding later.
First, value goes up as length goes down. Rods under 8ft are generally favored and there is a great reason for this especially for those who intend to fish a rod: weight. Heavy rods are not easy (or much fun) to cast all day long. My first cane rod was almost my last for this reason. I was given a 9’ rod of dubious manufacture that also doubled as a casting rod. It was so heavy and unwieldy that I wondered at the sanity of anyone willing to pay more than $50 for such a rod much less the thousands that I knew a collectible would command.
Second, the condition of the rod is of importance but less so if you wish to fish it instead of collecting it. Rod condition encompasses a variety of factors but the most important are the condition of the cane, wraps and hardware. Many bamboo tips, given their age, have been broken and repaired over the years. You can normally spot this by seeing two tips of differing lengths. This is a dead giveaway that the rod has been repaired. Another thing to look for is mis-matched wraps on the guides. Many guides have been reworked and wrapped just to make the rod fishable at some remote time in the past where value was a non-issue. This detracts from the value of the rod but not from its fishablility. Finally, the condition of the cork, reel seat, and the ferule fit will affect value and sometimes fishability. Having the original tube and sock in ones possession also adds to the value of any rod. You should also be aware that well-fished rods (or incorrectly stored rods) often develop a “set” or bend to the bamboo, especially in the tip sections. Minor set is not a huge problem and can usually be worked out. Many rods with slight set fish just fine. I make a personal habit of often turning the rod over when fighting fish to reverse any set my rods would normally take under everyday fishing conditions.
While length and condition of cane rods are important, you should also be familiar with some of the well known names in bamboo history and their characteristics. This will help you make an informed buying decision when the time comes.
Rods break down into basically two categories: Handmade, custom rods and “production” rods. The custom rods command far and away the highest prices.
Production rods are really the meat and potatoes of what we’re talking about here. These are rods that the average trout bum can acquire without selling the Mercedes; rods that don’t make you feel guilty or fearful about fishing them all day. Some of the classics in this category include Orvis, Heddon, Granger, South Bend, and Montague and the many unmarked rods that still exist.
Two of the greatest things about production rods is their more or less high availability and moderate to low price. While quality differs greatly, the Orvis, Heddon, and Granger rods are regarded as the cream of the crop and are terrific fishing tools, many of which are as serviceable today as they were 80 years ago.
So where to find these rods? First off, check your local fly shop. Not all fly shops deal in cane but you can usually find someone there who is a loyal devotee. Antique stores can be a source but my experience has taught me that most of these places think every bamboo rod is a Payne and charge accordingly.
Finally, auctions, especially Ebay, are good places to look and educate yourself. A word of caution on auction sites: Buy only from those that offer a return policy after an initial inspection period. Any reputable dealer should be willing to take back a nice cane rod if it is not exactly what you thought you were buying.
Lastly serious appraisal of rods is best done by those with lots of experience that really know their cane rod history and can appreciate what they are looking at. That being said, there is a wealth of information out there for the lay person who chooses to take the time to educate him or herself. Fly shops can offer appraisal services and there are a multitude of books on the subject. Ebay can be a very good determinate of value, keeping in mind that something is ultimately worth what someone else is willing to pay for it. Mostly these days, however, I’m not that concerned about how much a thing is worth. I only have one question: can I take it fishing?
Are now on sale at the store. price for the year is $45cash/$47 if paying by ccard. Fishing has been good especially on warmer days.
I love fishing wet flys. Its the oldest form of fly fishing but its still one of the most effective ways to take fish consistently. Let me tell you why I like it in case you haven’t given this most classic form of fly fishing a try.
First off, I’m a pretty no-nonsense guy; I want to catch fish. My time is limted and I want to maximize my time on the stream. Wet flys work. Not every time but most of the time.
Second they are a lot of fun to fish. I hate dry flies. Ok, call me lazy but I don’t really like having to constantly dress dries to keep them up top. That leaves me the option of streamers, wets or nymphs. Nymphs are good but you usually have to add some kind of weight to get them down–not the first or most pleasant option for the fly caster. With wets things are different–quite different.
Most of those who fish wets fish them in a “cast” or series of two to three flies. Depth, as with nymphs, can be quite important. I use different size flies at differing points on the leader to control depth. I often favor a larger point fly: a good one is a yellow stone or something in the size 10 to 12 range. This will help sink the cast. I follow with a standard wet in size 14 or so then usually a smaller offering if im searching water and there is no visible hatch going on.
One of my favorite ways to fish a cast of wet flies is the across and down with a “bump”. I cast across or slightly upstream (its important to give things time to sink a bit) then let the line slide by and as is starts to get to about a 45 angle downstream (or when i think its over fish) i start to make a short up and down snap with the rod tip moving the flies about3-4 inches through the water. I immediately follow with as short strip of 4-6 inches and so work the flies through the water and around the bend in the line formed as the current pulls everything downstream. “What about drag fee drift?”, you ask? Forget about it. It doesn’t really apply in wet fly fishing. This in fact makes this a much easier way to fish for most beginners who not only don’t understand the concept of drag free drift but can’t control it very well anyway. I use this technique a lot with beginning anglers on my guided trips.
If you are interested in more info on this as well as some really great patterns, stop by and check out our video by wet fly waterguides from PA. We have some selection boxes from them and they’ve done a great video demonstrating the technique ive just described. Try wet flies. Its a great new (old) way to fish and I’ll bet its also a new challenge for most fly fishermen to take on. Oh, by the way, they catch fish too.
Gordon English
Update for James River and Moorman’s River
Moorman’s River was stocked by TJTU on Saturday, October 18. fishing is on fire right now! 10-15 fish possible from each pool. Most of the usual suspects will work including, san juan worm, green CJ, PT in size 18 and thin mints, just get your offering on the bottom. If you fish it, post a reply here.
James River Smallmouth is pretty much over at this point. Water temps have reached below 60.
Fish Report for central Virginia (VA) and the Charlottesville Area
James River:Water levels are low but are floatable. Smallmouth are in their fall feeding pattern and very aggressive. (this applies to largemouth too in local lakes). We’ve been trying out some great new flies including the Wiggle Worm and Seaducer in red and white. They are taking fish consistently. Trip on oct 10 got 25 fish for half day trip.
Rose River:Fishing has been steady for trophy trout on this private section. Book now as fall spaces are filling fast. Fish the deeper holes with the usual suspects including San Juan Worm, PT flashback, Prince, or Thin Mints. Water levels are low but fishable. Pools are holding most fish.
Meadown Lane on the Jackson River:Stocked mid September and fishing ok even with low water. Really need RAIN! Stoneflies are an important food source here so fish some patterns like Coffee Stone, Poxy biot stone, and Pat’s Stone.
Moormans River, Special Regs:Planned stocking mid October when water levels come up. Subscribe to our RSS feed to be notified when we post the stocking.
Blue Ridge Moutain Streams:Fishing here is good when you find fish. Attractor patterns on top. Fish hopper droppers until you find the color/fly they want. Water levels are actually holding well.
Harrisonburg Spring Creeks:Not currently fishable due to water levels. This information will change as soon as it rains.
Chesapeake Bay:Reports are that there are a lot of schoolie stripers holding outside the bay and staging. Should be a week or two untill they come in. This warm week will delay things slightly. Lots of Reds and Specs on the move. Contact us for booking info with our guides in that area. Most rates are $350/day.
Albemarle Angler Central Virginia Rivers (most frequently fished)
Conway River/Devils Ditch (Greene County)
Special regulations apply to that portion of Conway River and its major tributary, Devils Ditch, within the Rapidan Wildlife Management Area and the Shenandoah National Park. The stream contains brook trout in the upper reaches with wild brown trout scattered through the lower portions. Adult brook trout range from 7-11 inches in length; brown trout occasionally exceed 20 inches. The stream lies north of Stanardsville and can be reached by Route 615 from Graves Mill.
Moormans River:Special Regs TJTU Section (Albemarle County)
The portion of the Moormans that is below the dam has been designated a special regs fly fishing only, catch-and-release fishery for trout. Thomas Jefferson Trout Unlimited stocks this section starting in October and ending in May. Action is usually very good and consistent through the season as long as poaching is controlled. 1/2 mile of water with runs and pools make for a great time and an easy trip from Charlottesville. You will need a yearly pass that costs $45 which can be purchased at our store.
North Fork Moormans River (Albemarle County)
That portion of the Moormans River lying within the Shenandoah National Park is designated as catch-and-release. This stream historically contained an excellent population of brook trout throughout with a small population of brown trout in the lower reaches. However, the 1995 flood significantly altered habitat along the lower section of river. Brook trout have been slow to recover in this section and brown trout seem to have been eliminated. The brook trout population remains strong in the upper section of stream and anglers are encouraged to hike upstream to fish. Access to the Moormans River is available over Rt. 614 past Sugar Hollow Reservoir.
Rapidan River (Madison County)
The Rapidan River is Virginia’s best known trout stream. Not only was it the state’s first special regulation stream, it was also the site of the Presidential Retreat established by President Hoover. Much of the original Camp Hoover is still intact and is occasionally used. The special regulation area of the Rapidan includes all the stream and its tributaries within the Shenandoah National Park and the Rapidan Wildlife Management Area. The stream contains an excellent native brook trout population with good numbers of 10-11 inch adults. Access to the Rapidan is available over Route 662 from Graves Mill and over Route 649 from Criglersville.
Shenandoah National Park (SNP)
The Park provides an entire region of special regulation trout streams, extending from Front Royal to Waynesboro. Most streams within the Park are open to fishing but only a portion of these allow anglers to creel trout and can change annually. Therefore, check with SNP for their annual fishing regulations. All fishing in the park is restricted to the use of single hook artificial lures. In streams allowing harvest the creel limit is six trout per day, all of which must be 9 inches or more in length. Most streams within the park contain good populations of native brook trout, while a few of the larger east slope streams also contain isolated populations of brown trout.
South River (August County)
The portion of the river running through the town of Waynesboro offers some good fishing when it is stocked. The DGIF has dropped the quality of their fish stocking in the last two years but since the section through the park is delayed harvest a lot of fish still hold for a period of time. Expect rainbows in the 10”-15” range. In spring, you will find browns in the South and we’ve even picked up a few brookies from time to time. Fish from the Dupont Factory downstream past the two briges. Sub-catchable browns were stocked last season so this season may very well turn out to be one of the best yet.
PRIRVATE WATERS
Rose River (Madison County)
The Rose is really the place to be for trout fishermen east of the blue ridge in terms of quality and quantity of fish. This is a very popular private fishery limited to 4 anglers per day. Rod fee is $85 which is a steal in terms of the quality of the fishery. Almost all fish are over 18” with many in the 20” range. A couple of 30” are there. You really need to book early to get on this water. We suggest 2 months in advance. 434.977.6882. Guided trips are also available through Albemarleangler.com
Meadow Lane Cottages, Jackson River (Bath County)
One of the most scenic and beautiful pieces of water I’ve fished with lots of great water types to challenge your skills. Limited to 8ppl per day. Stoneflies are prolific here and there are also great caddis and mayfly hatches. The owners have really upgraded their stocking program after realizing what kind of fishery they have. It’s a long drive but well worth your time especially if you wanted to do a weekend or overnight at the B & B. Contact albemarleangler.com for details or call 434.977.6882
Harrisonburg Spring Creeks
Two very good waters exist west of the blue ridge: Suzie Q Farm and Riverbend Farm. Mossy Creek Flyfishers is maintaining the stocking program and there are some VERY large fish in these creeks. These are private waters costing $65/day but the quality of the fisheries easily justifies the cost. Contact albemarleangler.com or mossycreekflyfishing.com for booking information.
Escatawba Farm
Another great fishery with lots of water, limited rods and great trout near Covington. Although it’s a ride, not too many places fish better than Escatawba. 20 fish + days are normal. The booking fee is $125 this year. Contact Albemarleangler.com for details.
SMALLMOUTH BASS
James River
The James is one of the premier smallmouth rivers in the state. 100 fish days are possible on good days. Fish over 18” are frequently landed. There are many sections of this long river that hold fish so you really need a good map to plan your float. The river is not easily wadable so we recommend floating with a raft or canoe. The run from Hardware River to Bremo Bluff is one of the best. For good maps and info on this River see Harry Murray’s book, VA Blue Ribbon Streams, or Bruce Ingram’s book, James River Guide.
To book a float or for current conditions see albemarleangler.com or call us 434.977.6882
This river fishes best from late march through October.
Shenandoah River
The South Fork of the Shenandoah is a legendary stream. Smaller and more personal than the James, the Shenandoah holds high quantities of smallmouth bass as well as other species. In spite of a fish kill a couple of years ago the population of bass has really bounced back with some big fish still there. Plan your floats carefully as some access points are very primitive. One of our favorite floats is from Island Ford to the town of Elkton. There are very good quantities of fish in this 7+ mile stretch and a lot of different water types to keep you interested.
Brook trout fly fishing
One of the biggest mistakes i see trout anglers making when fishing nymphs is not getting the fly deep enough. This can make the difference between success and utter failure. To set this up the most important thing is to have enough weight to get the fly down on the bottom but no so much that you hang up. You will get a feel for this after awhile. The variables that dictate the amount of weight include current speed and depth. Faster, deeper water requires more weight where slower, shallower water requires less. A good rule of thumb is to add weight until you start to hang the bottom the back off a bit. You should occasionally hang bottom without snagging or feel the weight bumping down the streambed. I usually use some sort of indicator, especially when guiding newer clients. It takes a lot of experience to know when you’re getting hit without one. The other plus to using an indicator that most people miss is that it also controls depth to a degree: it will keep things from sinking too far. A final note: i carry a multi pack of splitshot (orvis) so can select the sizes i need for the conditions im fishing. #4 is the size i use most in the Virginia area.
Gordon
|
|
