English Pheasant Tail Nymph

This is the English version of the Pheasant tail nymph.  The difference between this and the American version is it has no legs and no peacock herl.  I’m sure the American PT is very effective as well but on heavily fished private waters where I do much of my guiding, I feel the fish often want a smaller, less flashy pattern and this one does it 90% of the time.  Mine contain a bit of flash on the back but no bead.  I fish this guy as a dropper off a bigger fly almost all the time but it is usually the fly that takes the fish.  The English PT imitates many small mayfly nymphs including the BWO which is active much of the year in nymph form.  This fly can also be fished near the surface with no weight when midges are coming off.  I usually fish it in 18 but go to 16 and 20 when I need too.

San Juan Worm

Ok laugh if you want but if I had one fly to use anywhere, with the possible exception of the English PT, this would be it.  I fish it in lots of colors as long as its red.  Trout, especially rainbows, love this thing but I’ve caught a good share of browns with it too.  Some have tried to belittle the SJW saying its not really a fly but more of a “bait”.  Its entirely artificial, tied on a hook, and imitates an available natural food source.  Period.  The fact that you can whip out a dozen at home in about 30 minutes is a big plus too.  Try this pattern especially when water is high or off color.  Often I’ll dead drift this pattern then do a mend that moves the pattern slightly.  The “twitch” often triggers strikes.  A great fly for beginners because it doesn’t require absolute control of the drift:  movement is a plus.

Prince Nymph

Normally I’m not a huge fan of “famous” patterns because I feel the fish see these on a regular basis but the Prince is an exception.  I know the fish have seen it a million times but that hasn’t made it any less effective.  This is an attractor pattern that can imitate a variety of bugs from stoneflies in the large sizes to small mayflies in the smaller sizes.  I think the combination of the white wings and the peacock herl is what makes this pattern so effective.  I’ll fish this in 10-12 in heavy water and go to smaller sizes in skinny water.  I often fish a PT as a dropper off this fly.  It is also very similar to an old wet fly pattern called a Picket Pin that is often overlooked today.  I always fish this fly with a bead head to help get it down.

Zebra Midge

During the cold winter months, the trout are biting and the midges are hatching.  Most people don’t much care for the combination of cold and size 22 flies;  who does?  But the Zebra will help you be productive.  Almost all my other patterns focus on mayflies, caddisflies, stoneflies, and terrestrials but it is necessary for every flyfisher to have at least one midge pattern (preferably two) in both light and dark colors.  When midges are hatching and trout are sipping them off the surface this is the fly to have.  Trout will often take it even down a foot or two in the water column.  This fly can turn your fishing from frustrating to fantastic in seconds.  As a note on midges, I often carry a light colored comparadun when the trout are right on the surface on cream midges.  Other options would be a Griffiths Gnat.  Fish this in 18 and 22.

Poxy Back Micro Stone

Virginia is home to numerous stoneflies especially the “yellow sally” which hatches in the spring.  This small yellow stonefly is often overlooked until it hatches but the nymphs are always around.  I will say that this pattern tends to produce better in the spring during the time when the Stones are crawling toward shore to hatch;  they do not emerge like the other flys.  I almost never fish the adult dry fly in this pattern but use then nymph instead.  I like it anywhere from 12-18.  The epoxy on the thorax tends to give the fly a “shine” which helps attract trout.  Typically the fish will either be “on” or “off” this one.  If its not producing within about 20 casts change flies.  Fish it in runs and riffles where Stoneflies live.

Thin Mint Streamer

Ok Ok.  I know I said 5 patterns but you have to carry a Woolley bugger right?  I carry one.  The thin mint is tied not with Chenille but with the all magical peacock herl for a body.  In addition, it has brown, black, and green marabou for a tail.  Can’t decide if you want to fish brown, olive or black?  Fish a thin mint and try all three.  Size is really unimportant for the most part but presentation can vary.  I usually start by fishing this dead drift like a nymph.  Watch for the “jump” in the line when a fish takes.  If that’s not producing or in off color water I will strip it slow and fast until I find what the fish like.  You can tie another fly off this as a dropper if you choose.

Final Flies

There you have my basic fly box.  As you probably noticed, I don’t have any dry flies in the list.  I usually do carry some with me but only use them if a full blown hatch is coming off.  The exception to that is fishing native brookies in the Blue Ridge Mountains:  I almost always fish these streams with dry flies, mostly attractor patterns that I can see well.  A couple of my favorites are the Royal Wulff, Mr. Rapidan and Elk  Hair Caddis.  If I was doing a list of 5 necessary dry flies, the Elk Hair Caddis would top my list.

Finally, I love fishing wet flies and at some point I’ll probably write a list of 5 must have wet flies.  For now I’ll say that I’d always have a Picket Pin with cdc, a March Brown Spider, and some type of Adams Variant as well as some soft hackles.  That would about sum up my simple trout fly box.  Of course you wouldn’t know that from looking in my car.

A lot has been written on the subject of bamboo fly rods, most of it trying to define the magical essence of the cane that seems to draw many of us back to its beauty and history despite the availability of newer high-tech materials. My intention is not to try to put into words what others before me have so eloquently espoused. I’d simply like to help those who are interested make more sense of the choices available to today’s aspiring bamboo enthusiast.
Recently, the fly fishing community has enjoyed a resurgence in interest in bamboo rods. Many classic models from famous makers command prices in the thousands of dollars to the point that the uneducated buyer often suffers under the misconception that any old classic cane rod must be a collectors item and worth a substantial sum. Nothing could be further from the truth. As the owner of a fly shop I see many old rods come through my doors and only 1 in 10 is worth anything more than $100. Only 1 in 100 is a true classic worth over $1000. This actually works in favor of those wanting to fish old cane because many of the “factory” rods from Heddon, Granger and others are not particularly valuable but they are a lot of fun to fish. Take a recent customer of mine for example: he bought a 1926 Heddon rod for about $100, paid $100 to have it restored and ended up with a great fishing tool with a heck of a lot of history attached to it which enriches his experience every time he sets foot on a stream. These “great deals” can be commonplace if you know where and what to look for in a cane rod.

Let me start by laying out some general principles of value that are used in appraising cane rods then some basic categories into which you can fit a given rod to help get a rough idea of its value if you are intending to buy. In addition, if you’ve not ever cast bamboo you may want to stop by your local fly shop and cast one—some find the slower action a bit disconcerting at first and deeply rewarding later.
First, value goes up as length goes down. Rods under 8ft are generally favored and there is a great reason for this especially for those who intend to fish a rod: weight. Heavy rods are not easy (or much fun) to cast all day long. My first cane rod was almost my last for this reason. I was given a 9’ rod of dubious manufacture that also doubled as a casting rod. It was so heavy and unwieldy that I wondered at the sanity of anyone willing to pay more than $50 for such a rod much less the thousands that I knew a collectible would command.
Second, the condition of the rod is of importance but less so if you wish to fish it instead of collecting it. Rod condition encompasses a variety of factors but the most important are the condition of the cane, wraps and hardware. Many bamboo tips, given their age, have been broken and repaired over the years. You can normally spot this by seeing two tips of differing lengths. This is a dead giveaway that the rod has been repaired. Another thing to look for is mis-matched wraps on the guides. Many guides have been reworked and wrapped just to make the rod fishable at some remote time in the past where value was a non-issue. This detracts from the value of the rod but not from its fishablility. Finally, the condition of the cork, reel seat, and the ferule fit will affect value and sometimes fishability. Having the original tube and sock in ones possession also adds to the value of any rod. You should also be aware that well-fished rods (or incorrectly stored rods) often develop a “set” or bend to the bamboo, especially in the tip sections. Minor set is not a huge problem and can usually be worked out. Many rods with slight set fish just fine. I make a personal habit of often turning the rod over when fighting fish to reverse any set my rods would normally take under everyday fishing conditions.
While length and condition of cane rods are important, you should also be familiar with some of the well known names in bamboo history and their characteristics. This will help you make an informed buying decision when the time comes.
Rods break down into basically two categories: Handmade, custom rods and “production” rods. The custom rods command far and away the highest prices.
Production rods are really the meat and potatoes of what we’re talking about here. These are rods that the average trout bum can acquire without selling the Mercedes; rods that don’t make you feel guilty or fearful about fishing them all day. Some of the classics in this category include Orvis, Heddon, Granger, South Bend, and Montague and the many unmarked rods that still exist.
Two of the greatest things about production rods is their more or less high availability and moderate to low price. While quality differs greatly, the Orvis, Heddon, and Granger rods are regarded as the cream of the crop and are terrific fishing tools, many of which are as serviceable today as they were 80 years ago.
So where to find these rods? First off, check your local fly shop. Not all fly shops deal in cane but you can usually find someone there who is a loyal devotee. Antique stores can be a source but my experience has taught me that most of these places think every bamboo rod is a Payne and charge accordingly.
Finally, auctions, especially Ebay, are good places to look and educate yourself. A word of caution on auction sites: Buy only from those that offer a return policy after an initial inspection period. Any reputable dealer should be willing to take back a nice cane rod if it is not exactly what you thought you were buying.
Lastly serious appraisal of rods is best done by those with lots of experience that really know their cane rod history and can appreciate what they are looking at. That being said, there is a wealth of information out there for the lay person who chooses to take the time to educate him or herself. Fly shops can offer appraisal services and there are a multitude of books on the subject. Ebay can be a very good determinate of value, keeping in mind that something is ultimately worth what someone else is willing to pay for it. Mostly these days, however, I’m not that concerned about how much a thing is worth. I only have one question: can I take it fishing?

First off, I’m a pretty no-nonsense guy; I want to catch fish. My time is limted and I want to maximize my time on the stream. Wet flys work. Not every time but most of the time.
Second they are a lot of fun to fish. I hate dry flies. Ok, call me lazy but I don’t really like having to constantly dress dries to keep them up top. That leaves me the option of streamers, wets or nymphs. Nymphs are good but you usually have to add some kind of weight to get them down–not the first or most pleasant option for the fly caster. With wets things are different–quite different.
Most of those who fish wets fish them in a “cast” or series of two to three flies. Depth, as with nymphs, can be quite important. I use different size flies at differing points on the leader to control depth. I often favor a larger point fly: a good one is a yellow stone or something in the size 10 to 12 range. This will help sink the cast. I follow with a standard wet in size 14 or so then usually a smaller offering if im searching water and there is no visible hatch going on.

One of my favorite ways to fish a cast of wet flies is the across and down with a “bump”. I cast across or slightly upstream (its important to give things time to sink a bit) then let the line slide by and as is starts to get to about a 45 angle downstream (or when i think its over fish) i start to make a short up and down snap with the rod tip moving the flies about3-4 inches through the water. I immediately follow with as short strip of 4-6 inches and so work the flies through the water and around the bend in the line formed as the current pulls everything downstream. “What about drag fee drift?”, you ask? Forget about it. It doesn’t really apply in wet fly fishing. This in fact makes this a much easier way to fish for most beginners who not only don’t understand the concept of drag free drift but can’t control it very well anyway. I use this technique a lot with beginning anglers on my guided trips.

If you are interested in more info on this as well as some really great patterns, stop by and check out our video by wet fly waterguides from PA. We have some selection boxes from them and they’ve done a great video demonstrating the technique ive just described. Try wet flies. Its a great new (old) way to fish and I’ll bet its also a new challenge for most fly fishermen to take on. Oh, by the way, they catch fish too.
Gordon English

Moorman’s River was stocked by TJTU on Saturday, October 18. fishing is on fire right now! 10-15 fish possible from each pool. Most of the usual suspects will work including, san juan worm, green CJ, PT in size 18 and thin mints, just get your offering on the bottom. If you fish it, post a reply here.

James River Smallmouth is pretty much over at this point. Water temps have reached below 60.

James River:Water levels are low but are floatable. Smallmouth are in their fall feeding pattern and very aggressive. (this applies to largemouth too in local lakes). We’ve been trying out some great new flies including the Wiggle Worm and Seaducer in red and white. They are taking fish consistently. Trip on oct 10 got 25 fish for half day trip.

Rose River:Fishing has been steady for trophy trout on this private section. Book now as fall spaces are filling fast. Fish the deeper holes with the usual suspects including San Juan Worm, PT flashback, Prince, or Thin Mints. Water levels are low but fishable. Pools are holding most fish.

Meadown Lane on the Jackson River:Stocked mid September and fishing ok even with low water. Really need RAIN! Stoneflies are an important food source here so fish some patterns like Coffee Stone, Poxy biot stone, and Pat’s Stone.

Moormans River, Special Regs:Planned stocking mid October when water levels come up. Subscribe to our RSS feed to be notified when we post the stocking.

Blue Ridge Moutain Streams:Fishing here is good when you find fish. Attractor patterns on top. Fish hopper droppers until you find the color/fly they want. Water levels are actually holding well.

Harrisonburg Spring Creeks:Not currently fishable due to water levels. This information will change as soon as it rains.

Chesapeake Bay:Reports are that there are a lot of schoolie stripers holding outside the bay and staging. Should be a week or two untill they come in. This warm week will delay things slightly. Lots of Reds and Specs on the move. Contact us for booking info with our guides in that area. Most rates are $350/day.